Okay, let's be honest, yesterday was a chaotic and exhausting day. Wonderful, insightful, beautiful, but a rollercoster of emotions. We needed a break today, serenity, and got it.
First, we said goodbye to Beit Jala, which was hard for me. The people there were warm, hospitable, and real. But it was time to go, and so we did.
As we left we had the pleasure of going through Jersualem on a Sabbath day, so the traffic was extremely light. We also took the same route to the Jordan River, Jericho, and the Dead Sea. Back through the desert again. This time though we went passed Jericho and turned right, going right along the River. Now something to notice, the normal view as of late;
See the difference?! This area above the Dead Sea along the Jordan River is Israel/Palestine's breadbasket. Very fertile land, and greener! All those little white dots are greenhouses, and they eat about EVERYTHING they produce. At it just got greener and greener. This was also the point we left the Jericho district (which is Palestinian) and went through our 1st checkpoint that wasn't at the Jerusalem city. And this time we got boarded. Dua dua dummmmm!!!! Actually, it was pretty mild. Two military boarder guards checked the bus briefly, walked up the aisle of the bus, checked things out and all was well. Frankly it was no more stressful than coming to a DUI checkpoint when you are stone sober. No problem, especially for a bunch of pastors (can you believe it? Har har).
After a 2 1/2 hour drive we reach the Sea of Galilee and see the city of Tiberias. That's Tiberius on the left.
The beauty of this lake or sea is just beyond words. After living in a stone and jungle concrete for almost a week, this is a welcome change. And look at the city, built on the hill. Again, always built on hills. Well, Jericho wasn't, but it feels that way!
Well we finally stopped at a small museum to see the infamous ancient boat. Perhaps you haven't heard of it. I really didn't either. But here's the story, in 1986 there was a drought here by the Sea so the waters receded. Two amateur archeologists checked out the exposed lakebed to find a bunch of ancient nails, and wood. After that, a team of archeologists found that an ancient fishing boat was buried here. Well they carefully got the boat out, took ten years to preserve it, and dated it...to the time of Christ. The odds are very strong that if Jesus didn't ride in this boat, he saw it!
It's made of 13 types of wood! Huh? Think of a guy who works on cars and has a junkyard full of parts and doesn't care if it looks pretty, so long it works. There you go. Here's the diagram of the different woods;
and what it originally looked like;
So when you hear you hear stories about the disciples and Jesus on the Sea, here's an appropriate image for you.
After that we took a boat ride across the Sea of Galilee. This was a large boat, and for the first half it was a fun little ride. Lots of goofing around and laughter. Observe;
That's my friend Tim; he's the best. Well after we got half way the boat stopped and we had a wonderful time of prayer and reflection; recalling the time when Jesus calmed the storm on this very sea. Something to note, the sea was unusually calm. Normally it'll make you seasick as the winds from the narrow valleys stir the waters (and that's where those sudden storms come from). Today, it was still as glass.
Really it was wonderfully peaceful here, away from the noise of the cities, just quiet, calm. "Peace, be still." Yup, chaotic waters are calmed. We could hear the birds chirping, lovely little song birds or the call of seagulls, not those annoying crows we're heard all week. It was serene. (Nerdy note, see that cliff on the left? That path through the valley goes to Nazareth).
Next was lunchtime at the opposite shore. I've become quite the fan of falafel! Now the opposite shore is just below the Golan Heights. You may have heard of this piece of land.
Well it's time to meet the fisherman, especially the one we all love; Peter! So we get on the bus and ride to the north shore where we find Capharnaum. Sound familiar. It's Peter the Fisherman's hometown, and home that Jesus did much of his teaching. So we stop at Capharnaum where a Franciscan church is located. Now one of our leaders Rev James Howell (who is such a delightful guy) says that fans of the Millennium Falcon from Star Wars would love this church. He looks at me. I pump my fist with excitement, and I'm shocked;
A Franciscan church that's shaped and colored like the Millennium Falcon? YES! Praise God!!! Why? Because it's protecting something underneath it. Underneath are the ruins of 1st century homes, and based on artifacts they were fisherman houses (hooks, remnants of nets, etc), with a curious exception. One home had been remodeled with fresh plaster over the walls, and Christian graffiti all over it dating 40 years after Jesus's death. So...with most scholars in agreement, ladies and gentleman, this is Peter's house!
Here you see the ruins of the town of Capernaum on the right, and the synagogue on the left. Doesn't it look Roman? Well, after Rome kicked the Jews out of Jerusalem, while defeated, they adopted their building styles. Ever think you'd see an image of the Ark of the Covenant on a Roman column? Now you have (on the right). It even has wheels, also very Roman. Now this synagogue was built in the 4-5th century. When it was excavated, they found it was built on top of another structure. Curious. Then they saw it used the same material as the 1st century homes, volcanic basalt stone instead of the white marble above. So with further excavations and study they find this; the foundation of the synagogue that Jesus TAUGHT!
See the darker stone against the white on the right. This is where Jesus taught and read from the book of Isaiah. So cool!
After this the day became even more surreal; we take a drive to ride up to the top of one of the large hills. I can't describe the beauty; so green, so peaceful, so lovely it almost made you ache. At the top of this large hill overlooking grasses and growing wheat fields we see the Church of the Beatitudes. We didn't go in (it's new; 1930s, so sorry, no good picture), but here's your trivia question; where did Jesus teach the Beatitudes, blessed are the -? On the mountain. This is where Jesus preached his Sermon on the Mount. Minus the people, this is what he saw;
People came HERE by the hundreds to hear the earth-shattering words of what God's Kingdom would look like. Not with violence or power for the mighty, but with mercy and grace for all. Rich and poor, men and women, young and old would sit together upon the soft grasses, look up and see him with perfect clarity. His voice would carry down the divided hills with relative ease. I believe we all heard His voice today within the tranquility of this...perfect place. I doubt any photograph or artist could capture this beauty; but here is my humble attempt.
We hiked to the bottom and from there made a short walk to the St Peter's Church of the Primacy. This is where Peter is remembered when he sees the Resurrected Christ after an unsuccessful overnight fishing trip and Jesus calls them to breakfast. There Jesus asks Peter to feed his sheep, and after much hesitation he does. We pondered the same calling in a moment of reflection there back at the Sea of Galilee.
This concluded our day. We came back to Tiberias to check in. Well, I miss Beit Jala already. The wifi isn't free (which SUCKS), it has an old smell, and the electrical system is nuts. There is a switch by my bed that turns on the bathroom light across the room. Um gee, thanks? And the bathroom is so European; the shower is basically half a door and is practically useless. At least the food is delicious, as is the view over the Sea. I still miss wifi, as a paid guest I think that should be standard! What a crock. 😡
Well, that ends today. Tomorrow is...something good I'm sure. 😉 Take care my friends, may God's peace find you and bring blessed stillness into your lives.
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